Collagen is the main structural component of the dermis providing strength and support to human skin. Collagen production in the skin tends to decline with age, as much as by 1% per year after the age of 18, which ultimately leads to ageing skin. This decline is far more noticeable in skin exposed to regular UVA/UVB radiation and is linked to photo-damage with resultant photo-ageing, hyperpigmentation, collagen breakdown and possible cancer.
Collagen types present in human tissue:
- Type I: most abundant in the body and skin, abundant in scar tissue, also found in bones, tendons, and other tissue.
- Type II-XI: form a component of cartilage
- Type III: Formed in phase-1 of wound repair, common in fast growing tissue and is later replaced by stronger Type I collagen
- Type IV: Basal Lamina (capillaries membrane filtration)
- Type V, VI: Generally found alongside Type I collagen
- Type VII: Major constituent of anchoring fibrils in basement membrane within the skin’s epidermal-dermal junction as well as oral mucosa and cervix
- Type VIII: Lining of blood vessels
- Type XI: Found alongside and interacts with types I and III
- Types I and III being the most abundant
Collagen synthesis and stimulation should play a major role in any successful anti-ageing regime to treat ageing skin. Products will vary depending on the action required, with ingredients used in personal care being researched by pharmaceutical giants who can afford the clinical trials in laboratories across the world. Delivery and formulation challenges involved in product ingredients differ significantly from product house to product house. Liposome encapsulation enhances product penetration and is amongst the most popular delivery systems. Product requirements range from skin barrier repair to enhancing cellular turnover to deeper peeling and skin needling.
Did you know? Topical application of collagen within a skin care product has little to no effect on collagen production within the skin. This is due to the fact that the collagen molecule is too large to adequately penetrate the skin.
Ingredient “actives” for collagen synthesis should include the following to prevent ageing skin:
Necessary for wound healing as it is a co-factor for lysyl and prolyl hydroxylase, which stabilize the triple helical structure of collagen. Furthermore, Vitamin C is a highly effective anti-oxidant that protects against the free-radicals that actively breaks down collagen and elastin fibres within the skin contributing to ageing skin.
|Found in:||DermaFix Vitamin C Serum 30ml|
|DermaFix ActiveCellCeutical Vitamin C 100ml|
An antioxidant that helps neutralize the damaging effects of oxidation caused by free radicals. Oxidation caused by free radicals is believed to be a primary cause of age-related degeneration, disease and ageing skin. Topical solutions with Vitamin A (such as retinol creams) have been shown to reduce signs of sun damage and skin aging by working as an exfoliator and reducing fine lines and wrinkles.
|Found in:||MD Prescriptives Vitamin A Propionate 57ml|
|DermaFix Vitanol A Serum 30ml|
Vitamin in in skin care products effectively offers anti-oxidant protection against free-radicals while assisting with barrier repair. It works especially well when combined with Vitamin C, assisting to help reconstruct collagen and elastin while sealing in moisture to keep the skin supple and firm to prevent the effects of ageing skin.
|Found in:||DermaFix Dermal Repair|
Key amino acids (Peptides) to prevent ageing skin and Collagen breakdown
Proteins or amino acids are too big to penetrate the skin barrier. Engineering synthesized peptides made of carefully selected amino acids have the potential to enter the stratum corneum and theoretically affect epidermal and dermal functioning. Peptides are a synthetic form of protein, broken down into its absolute components to assist with collagen and elastin repair, which can reverse some of the effects associated with ageing skin. The difference between Polypeptides (long) and peptides (short) is the number of joins and length of chain of the amino acids.
Various forms of peptides are used for eg:
Neurotransmitter peptides acting as botulinum toxin alternatives and include Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) and Pentapeptide -3. Pentapeptide-3 reduces muscle contraction and theoretically the depth of wrinkles on the face while Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 gently relaxes face muscles by interfering with the nerve signals that signal the muscle to contract.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3 or -7 works to increase biomimetic peptides assisting with collagen production by mimicking the body’s own skin collagen production regulator. Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, the attachment of palmitic acid is to make the collagen fragment more lipophilic and more compatible with the skin to allow better penetration. The goal was to find a short peptide that would stimulate the fibroblasts in the skin to produce key components of the extra-cellular matrix, such as collagen and hyaluronic acid. Peptides offer is a future of promise – yet still in its infancy within the skin care realm with on-going research.
DermaFix Collagen Conformer
|DermaFix Bio-Hydrating Cream|
Copper peptides provide an anti-inflammatory action and promote the synthesis of elastin, proteoglycans, glycosaminoglycans and other components of the skin matrix. Carrier peptides – GHK-Cu – Copper utilised to induce dermal cell proliferation and delay the onset of ageing skin.
DermaFix ACC Copper 100ml
|Found in:||DermaFix CopperPeptide 10ml|
|MD Prescriptives Intensive Scar Repair 150ml|
Stem Cell Technology
Research into the use of plant based stem cells for the protection of our own skin stem cells has increased rapidly over the past few years. The result is that we are now able to utilise certain epigenetic factors sourced from plant stem cells for the protection and longevity of both epidermal and dermal skin cells for effective ageing skin treatment.
DermaFix PowerDerm 57ml with Apple Stem Cells
|Found in:||DermaFix Stem Cell Complex 21ml with Argan Stem Cells|
|DermaFix Corrective Eye Complex 15ml with Apple Stem Cells|
Bioflavonoids occur in a wide variety of fruit and vegetables and they enhance the absorption and utilization of vitamin C. They keep skin supple and elastic by assisting vitamin C in its manufacture of collagen, as well as strengthening capillaries and reducing sagging skin. Bioflavonoids also protect the skin against sun-induced UV radiation, especially the bioflavonoids lutein and lycopene.
DermaFix VitaPlex C 57ml
|Found in:||DermaFix DermaStretch 200ml|
Growth Factor stimulation leads to the direct stimulation of the fibroblast, thereby assisting with collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycan production, keeping the skin firmer, supple and hydrated.
DermaFix Regenerate Rx 57ml
|Found in:||DermaFix ACC Copper 100ml|
Essential Fatty Acids
Essential fatty acids (EFA’s) are vital for skin and body health. These acids cannot be manufactured in the body itself and need to be obtained by means of eating a balanced diet. This group typically includes Omega Acids, linoleic acids and other polyunsaturated fatty acids. A shortage of EFA’s leads to skin flaking, dryness, sagging and collagen breakdown. Topical application of EFA’s is as beneficial for the skin as taking these supplements orally.
DermaFix Omega Tissue Oil 100ml
|Found in:||DermaFix Bio Effective Cream 57 ml|
|DermaFix Argan oil 100% pure 50ml|
Large numbers of different enzymes exist in the skin all playing a role in removing damaged fibres and cells to allow tissue repair and replacement. It is essential that unneeded proteins are removed. Dermal hydration is vital to the function of enzymes and will be impaired if poor fluid intake or medication with diuretic side effects are not corrected.
Enzyme modulating peptides – Soy proteins, rice proteins are extracted from botanical sources rather than engineered through protein chemistry. Used with previously discussed synthesized peptides.
|Found in:||DermaFix Collagen Conformer|
Factors to keep in mind for the further improvement of skin health and care of ageing skin:
A thorough cleansing routine includes double cleansing followed by the application of a toner. This ensures that the skin is readily prepared for the application of actives to follow:
Choose your cleanser from the DermaFix cleanser range:
- DermaFix Hydra-Silk Cleanser 200ml
- DermaFix Brightening Cleanser 200ml
- DermaFix Active Cleansing Gel 200ml
- DermaFix Gentle Cleansing Gel 200ml
- MD Prescriptives Mandelic Cleanser 200ml
- DermaFix Revitalising Toner 150ml
- DermaFix Brightening Toner 150ml
- MD Prescriptives Mandelic Toner 150ml
The removal of epidermal skin cell build-up encourages cellular turnover and improves on skin texture, tone and brightness. Deeper exfoliation will further assist with dermal stimulation of the fibroblast and an improvement may be noted on superficial lines and wrinkles. Various methods are utilised for skin exfoliation and may include enzymatic, mechanical and chemical exfoliation. Enzymatic exfoliation makes use of fruit enzymes that hydrolyse (digest) proteins present within the dead skin cell, dissolving the skin cell build up, mechanical exfoliation ‘buffs’ or abrades the skin, removing dead skin cells in the process while chemical exfoliation makes use of acids and other chemical actives to dissolve the ‘glue-bond’ present between the skin cells, making the skin cell available for removal.
DermaFix Brightening Exfoliant 25g – enzymatic
|Found in:||DermaFix DermaPolish 50g / 100g – enzymatic|
|DermaFix Ultra XFoliant 150g – mechanical exfoliation|
|DermaFix DermaBright 20ml / 50ml – chemical exfoliation|
|DermaFix Professional Chemical Peels|
Unprotected sun exposure leads to the active breakdown of collagen and elastin and in turn ageing skin. The use of sun protection which includes both high UVA and high UVB sun filters is an essential part of any successful anti-ageing routine. Sun protection furthermore minimises the risks of skin cancer and proper use thereof will help you to maintain an even skin tone and DermaFix has a sun protection product to match any of your sun care needs.
DermaFix DermaShield SPF 50
|Found in:||DermaFix DermaShield SPF 45|
|MD Prescriptives SPF 50|
Keeping all of the above-mentioned ageing skin and collagen breakdown pointers in mind will help you to ensure that your skin care regime promotes a happier and healthier skin functioning.
For further information on the DermaFix or MD Prescriptives products, please contact us directly on 0861 28 23 23, or visit our website on www.dermafix.co.za.